The most familiar double-breasted jacket has six buttons with two
that close—the 6x2—but a variety of suitmakers have taken a more daring
stance. Here, then, is a primer on atypical alternatives.
The 2x1
Jacket by Ermenegildo Zegna Couture ($4,995); trousers by Ermenegildo Zegna Couture ($2,100).
Source: Ermenegildo Zegna Couture
Back Story On
a tuxedo, this style earns applause across the board, especially when
the jacket takes a shawl lapel. On a city suit, though, it’s the
formal-tailoring equivalent of a motorcycle jacket and best left to
resolute rebels.
What’s New The
rebel forces have grown stronger, with this cult cut popping up all
over the place. Its less-is-more ritziness serves as a canvas for a
jazzy pattern or a surprising texture.
How to Wear It Welcomed at supper clubs,
discothèques, and Independent Spirit Awards acceptance speeches. Pair it
with a narrow shirt, a skinny tie, and a tight smile.
Where to Buy It Jackets in this mode can be had from Ermenegildo Zegna Couture ($4,995).
Back Story The
Duke of Windsor’s younger brother (Prince George, Duke of Kent) used
this style, with its long lapel roll, to flatter his short stature. See
also the 4x1s and 6x1s favored by 5-foot-6-inch Ralph Lauren.
What’s New In
the 1980s those buttons went south, and this cut’s reputation
eventually followed. Designers are striving to restore its appeal by
branding its billowing schlubbiness as hip nonchalance.
What’s New At work, or, depending on the details, as a Miami Vice Halloween costume. Pair it with full-cut trousers. And find a pal to play Crockett to your Tubbs.
Where to Buy It London
brand E. Tautz & Sons offers one with a long, straight cut and a
$1,025 price tag. “We softened the construction,” says designer Patrick
Grant, “and chose cloths with a breathable, open texture.”
Back Story The
most ordinary stance here simply omits the top buttons of the 6x2. That
those beautifully useless things are sometimes razzed as “nipple
buttons” may explain some gents’ discomfort with the style.
What’s New Custom shops such as Articles of Style
report an increase in commissions for these. The look’s in keeping with
the new casual feel of office attire. Works well with patch pockets.
How to Wear It Cocktail
parties, at every opportunity. Pair it with a boutonniere. Often the
double-breasted suit takes a hole on each peak lapel, and it seems a
shame to let them both sit idle.
Where to Buy It You
can do worse than Armani. But you cannot do much better, this fall,
than the ready-to-wear offering from Savile Row’s Richard James ($1,000
to $1,300), which includes ocher flannels and jazzy checks.
The 6x3
Hermès (from $4,400).
Source: Hermès
Back Story Its
rise is a 1960s tale of two cities: In London, Mods thought it a la
mode, while their counterparts in Paris bought from designer Ted
Lapidus.
What’s New The 6x3 is getting some
fresh respect. Of all the funkier double-breasted cuts, this is the one
most likely to earn the approval of menswear purists and those in more
conservative offices.
How to Wear It This one
goes anywhere. Pair it with a striking shirt-and-tie combo. You won’t be
showing a lot of shirt front, so make it count.
Where to Buy It Italian
brand Sunnei (jackets from $450) decks out its suits in brash plaids,
while the romantics at Hermès have designed versions in plush, sedate
solids and muted stripes, from $4,400.
Back Story Rarely
spotted on a suit jacket, this descends straight from the “reefer
coats” of navy brass. The 8x3 is most familiar as the blue blazer worn
by guys who answer to grand titles, such as Charles, Prince of Wales,
and Dave, vice commodore of his yacht club.
What’s New Understand
that by wearing this you risk pomposity in most circumstances. To pull
it off, be self-aware and wholeheartedly half-ironic.
How to Wear It Anyplace
you want to annoy dullards with the shining splendor of your metallic
buttons. Pair it with jeans in the city, white jeans on the Riviera,
reds on Nantucket, cords on a Wes Anderson set.
Where to Buy It The
sport coat startup Rowing Blazers—nautical by nature and instinctively
insouciant—will put you in a model called the Prince Charlie for $1,095.
It’s been four years like no other! With just hours left before the inauguration of Joe Biden as US president, we at RT look at a few moments of nostalgia that are in store for us all. pic.twitter.com/GinrgbvHHz
More on the N-3B parka, from that wikipedia entry:
The original snorkel parka (USAF
N-3B parka, which is 3/4 length and has a full, attached hood; the
similar N-2B parka is waist-length and has an attached split hood) was
developed in the United States during the early 1950s for military use,
mainly for flight crews stationed in extremely cold areas. It was
designed for use in areas with temperatures as low as −60 °F (−51 °C).
Originally made with a sage green DuPont flight silk nylon outer and lining it was padded with a wool blanket type material until the mid-1970s when the padding was changed to polyester
wadding making the jacket both lighter and warmer. The outer shell
material also was changed to a sage green cotton-nylon blend, with
respective percentages 80–20, 65–35, and 50–50 being used at various
times.
It gained the common name of "snorkel parka" because the hood can
be zipped right up leaving only a small tunnel (or snorkel) for the
wearer to look out of. This is particularly effective in very cold,
windy weather although it has the added liabilities of seriously
limiting the field of vision and hearing. Earlier Vietnam-era hoods had
genuine fur ruffs; later versions used synthetic furs. Original
manufacturers of this parka for the government included Skyline,
Southern Athletic, Lancer, Greenbrier, Workroom For Designers, Alpha,
and Avirex.
The basic N-3B parka design was copied and sold to the civilian
market by many manufacturers with varying degrees of quality and
faithfulness to the original government specifications. Surplus military
parkas are often available for relatively low prices online and in surplus stores;
they compare quite favorably with civilian extreme-cold parkas of all
types due to their robust construction, designed for combat conditions,
and warmth.
The 1970s–1980s civilian version of the parka was made in many
colors – navy blue, green, brown, black, maroon, grey, royal blue, sky
blue and bright orange. Most had an orange diamond quilted nylon lining,
although a very small number did have alternative colored linings such
as yellow, pale blue, and green. While still manufacturing parkas to the
military standard, Alpha Industries have more recently adopted the orange lining and a slimmer fit when producing their VF59
model parka which is now more popular than the military version.
In the late 1980s the snorkel parka came to be associated in the UK with trainspotters, who would supposedly wear them, giving birth to the slang term there anorak.
In Europe the snorkel parka started to regain popularity in the late 1990s and early 2000s.
Here is what to have for breakfast courtesy of Philip Marlow, Californian rather than Mediterranean cuisine:
...orange juice, bacon and eggs, toast, honey, three or four cups of coffee and a toothpick.
Philip Marlowe is a fictional character created by Raymond Chandler.
Marlowe's character is foremost within the genre of hardboiled crime fiction that originated in the 1920s, notably in Black Mask magazine, in which Dashiell Hammett's The Continental Op and Sam Spade first appeared. Underneath the wisecracking, hard-drinking, tough private eye, Marlowe is quietly contemplative and philosophical and enjoys chess and poetry...
...and a substantial breakfast, it seems
Hard-boiled breakfast time
Общепит: Завтрак Филипа Марлоу: Завтрак Филипа Марлоу, частного детектива из романов Реймонда Чандлера. ...апельсиновый сок, бекон с яичницей, тост, мед, три или ч...
